The Favela Tour is an illuminating experience, one which will expand your cultural knowledge of Rio de Janeiro, as it introduces you to another side of the city: the favela. Favela tours can be controversial, and many travellers first want to know a bit more about the tours and the impact they have before booking. To help you see why a favela tour should be on your Rio activity list, we spoke to Marcelo Armstrong, the pioneer of the favela tour in Rio de Janeiro.

Born in Brazil, Marcelo spent a number of years travelling to various countries and exploring different cultures. When he returned home in 1992, he decided to set up tours to the favelas, to share more of his culture with visitors. We took the opportunity to interview Marcelo to find out more about the favelas, his tours, and what both the favela inhabitants and tourists think about them..

[caption id="attachment_7166" align="alignnone" width="640"]Visiting a favela in Rio enables you to see a different side of the city Visiting a favela in Rio enables you to see a different side of the city / source[/caption]

Why do a Favela tour in Rio?

One of the first things we wanted to know was why he favours Rocinha Favela over other ones, since this is where his tours take place. Marcelo reminded us that his tour visits Vila Canoas as well, the neighbouring favela to his own home. He says that, "Rocinha is seen by most as the greatest of all favelas, not only due to its size, but because of the spectacular views over Rio." In addition it its views, it is also situated close to the main tourist zones and is easy to access.

[caption id="attachment_7168" align="alignnone" width="640"]Favela Tour visits Vila Canoas as well as Rocinha Favela Tour visits Vila Canoas as well as Rocinha / source[/caption]   The other big issue tourists have is, is it safe to visit a favela? And can tourists visit a favela on their own, or should they only go with a tour? This is not such an easy answer, Marcelo tells us, highlighting the complexity of the subject, and the variation between the 1,000 odd favelas in Rio de Janeiro. He emphasises that "not all are the same; Rocinha is often in the press for incidents of violence (though our clients have never spoken of any such situation). Vila Canoas, on the other hand, is always quiet, and has never presented any danger." He does counter this by advising tourists not to venture alone into the favelas, as there is a risk, which varies by the time of day and place. He advises foreigners to always go into a favela accompanied by a guide, or a resident. [caption id="attachment_7170" align="alignnone" width="640"]It is recommended that you visit the favelas with a guide, resident or friend. It is recommended that you visit the favelas with a guide, resident or friend. / source[/caption]

What do you do on a Favela Tour?

Favela tours aim to educate tourists. Moving around the favela with a knowledgeable, local guide, you will learn about topics related, directly and indirectly, to the favela. The point, says Marcelo, is to contextualise the favela "in relation to the socio-economic climate of Rio and the rest of Brazil." He emphasises that the majority of the tour takes place on foot, using the jeep or van only when it is necessary. Walking around both Rocinha and Vila Canoas brings people into contact with the sights, smells and sounds of the favela. But what about the criticism that favela tours are a "circus act" and voyeuristic poverty tourism? He counters that he understands the criticism, but says that the problem is that many people don't understand the work that he and his team does. He points out that, "the favela is part of the social reality of Brazil, and it wouldn't be possible to fully understand the country without being subjected to those less fortunate members of our society. The tour is designed for travellers who want to delve deeper in Brazil's culture and confront and debunk stereotypes concerning the Brazilian favelas and other social ills." Perhaps one of the signs that the tour is doing going is the reactions from travellers who have done the tour, who admit that their initial judgements and criticisms were unfounded.

[caption id="attachment_7171" align="alignnone" width="640"]The favela is part of the social reality of Brazil The favela is part of the social reality of Brazil / source[/caption]

How do locals and tourists feel about Favela Tourism?

Favela tours have become very popular, but how do the inhabitants of the favelas feel about the presence of tourists? And, crucially, are these tours contributing to the development of the favelas? Marcelo is quick to point out that he would never propose a tour that the residents of the favela weren't supportive of. In fact, this was his top priority when he started the tour; "I entered the favela (it was May of 1992), introduced myself and was then invited to a residents' meeting, with about a hundred of them present. I introduced the idea of bringing foreign tourists to them and they were excited to know that people were interested in their social reality." The residents and Marcelo alike see the tours as a way of dispelling any myths about the favela, particularly that the favela is a no-go area, synonymous with theft, violence and crime. Marcelo tells us that the residents see the tour as a way to positively change people's preconceived notions of the favela, and "to raise awareness and broaden tourists' cultural knowledge of Brazil." And the tourists? Marcelo says that most tourists are positively surprised when they take the tour, as they see the favelas are not what they imagined - there isn't as much poverty, dirt, violence and helplessness as they imagined. In addition, they leave feeling that they have a much better understanding of the social realities of Rio de Janeiro. Increasingly, there are options for tourists to stay in favelas and to party there as well, with nightclubs in the favelas attracting people because of their much lower prices. Marcelo doesn't have a problem with this, saying that if tourists wish to partake in these activities they should, provided they are looking for positive experiences, causing no harm to anyone. Spending time in the favela this way also gives travellers the opportunity to interact with the local community and people. [caption id="attachment_7173" align="alignnone" width="640"]The tours take place on foot The tours take place on foot / source[/caption]   Is favela tourism affecting the daily life of the favela, particularly with regard to the benefits to the community? Marcelo reminds us his tour has been operating for twenty-three years, so favela tourism is part of the everyday activity in the two favelas his tour visits. Besides the financial benefit this brings, for example R$73,000.00 to schools in 2013, there are also deeper benefits, such as greater inclusion, and the breaking down of negative perceptions and prejudices. Most of these benefits are hard to quantify, but the important thing is that these advantages are very much real, and are contributing positively to the development of the favelas and their communities. What strikes many people about the favelas is the stark contrast between this reality and that of the wealthier side of Rio. Given this inequality, what is the relationship like between the inhabitants of the favelas and their neighbours? Marcelo tells us that this is simply the reality of Rio de Janeiro. It may not always be easy or good, but the challenge of living side by side is a learning experience for both social classes. He says that in Rio, "this coexistence can be very enriching for the exchange and conviviality of differences."

Visiting a favela is an eye-opening experience, especially under the guidance of Marcelo Armstrong and his company, who's pioneering relationship with Rocinha and Vila Canoas favelas and their residents mean that you can be assured of a meaningful experience that is mutually beneficial. We'd like to thank Marcelo for taking the time to answer our questions, and shedding more light on favela tourism in Rio de Janeiro.

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By: Milly Day